Half-soluble special fabric and a method of manufacturing embroidery lace thereon



Aprll 16, 1968 T HIHIKO RlYA 3,377,678

HALF- LUBLE ECIAL FAB C AND A- METHOD OF M FACTURING EMBROI Y LACETHEREON Fil 965 ed Dec. l

-1NVENTOR To sum: KO ORIYA ATTORNEY;

United States Patent M HALF-SOLUBLE SPECIAL FABRIC AND A METHOD OFMANUFACTURING EM- BROIDERY LACE THEREON Toshihiko Mariya, Tokyo, Japan,assignor to Niholl ylnylon Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan, a corporation ofapan Filed Dec. 27, 1965, Ser. No. 516,731 9 Claims. (CI. 28-76)ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A method for manufacturing a specialembroidery lace by preparing a fabric from a combination of crimpedyarn, hard-twisted, or non-twisted yarn of hot waterinsoluble fibershaving low denier and polyvinyl alcohol or alginic acid yarn of hotwater-soluble fibers, embroidering the thus prepared fabric as anembroidery foundation cloth with hot Water-insoluble yarn, anddissolving and removing only the hot water-soluble fibers from thefoundation cloth.

This invention relates to a special fabric manufactured with a fine sizeof insoluble yarn, either of crimped, hardtwisted or non-twisted type,mix-used with a soluble yarn; and further relates to a method ofmanufacturing commercially valuable embroidery lace using said fabric asa foundation cloth.

Generally speaking, when embroidery is attempted on a foundation cloth,such foundation must be strong enough to withstand the burden of heavyand repetitious stitchings. It is therefore required that the foundationcloth be constructed with as many warps and wefts as permissible,preferably with a coarse size of yarn. The fabric of such constructionis bound to be heavy and thick, and accordingly, even if it maywithstand the burden of heavy stitchings, distinct noticeability of thefoundation itself adversely affects delicacy and elegance of theembroidery lace made thereon. Such embroidery lace has little commercialvalue.

In order to avoid the demerit of distinct noticeability, the foundationcloth must be fine and light. The only known way of making such a fabricis to construct a loose weave using a line size of yarn both for Warpand weft. A fabric so woven, however, is too weak as a foundation towithstand the burden of heavy stitchings, and accordingly, slippings, orpartial or even total break of the cloth occurs in the process ofstitchings. Such embroidery lace has no commercial value.

There exists a conventional guipure embroidery, whereby a foundationcloth is totally dissolved with the help of chemicals, leaving theembroidery work alone intact. In the case of guipure, however, since thefoundation is completely dissolved, each and every pattern or figuremust be connected one way or another by the connection lines stitchedall over open spaces. Otherwise, the patterns will not hold bythemselves after the foundation has been dissolved. Guipure again hasits drawbacks, such as:

(a) Acceptable patterns or figures are limited only to those which areconnected. Separate or unconnected patterns are technically impossiblefor use in guipure.

(b) Incomplete stitchings or connection lines are frequently discoveredonly after the foundation has been dissolved, thus tedious mendings areoften required.

(c) Due to a lengthy time required in precise and heavy stitchings allover the patterns and the frequent necessity of later mendings, etc.,costs are bound to be high.

This invention has not only solved the technical difiiculties asexplained in the case of embroidering on a fine 3,377,678 Patented Apr.16, 1968 foundation, but also created at much reduced costs a variety ofnew embroidery lace which is extremely similar to the costly guipure,and moreover made it possible to choose patterns more freely than in thecase of guipure.

The foundation cloth in this invention is woven, mixusing a specialsoluble yarn and a fine size of insoluble yarn. The fabric so composedof is, with the support of soluble yarn therein, strong enough as afoundation and safely withstand the burden of heavy stitchings. Afterthe embroidery is finished using an insoluble thread, then the solublepart in the foundation is dissolved. Because of disappearance of thesoluble part, spaces in-between warps and wefts of the insoluble part offoundation are widened, giving far less noticeability, and yet thepatterns had already been stitched on and held there neatly by theinsoluble foundation. The embroidery thus obtained is unique in thepoint that while retaining almost guipure like elegance and appearance,a variety of new patterns, connected or unconnected, inclusive, arefreely worked on. The insoluble foundation cloth, with its widenedspaces, creates a fine texture and adds delicate touch to the embroiderylace. It also holds the stitched threads neatly, thereby greatlyreducing the trouble of later mendings.

This invention relates to a special fabric mix-woven with eithercrimped, hard-twisted or non-twisted yarn of a fine size which isinsoluble in lukewarm or hot water, such as nylon, polyester and othersynthetics, as well as silk, cotton, etc. having a size of 10-40deniers, and a yarn which is soluble in lukewarm or hot water, having asize of 50-150 deniers, a water-softening point of 30-80 C., such aspolyvinyl alcohol or alginic acid fibers. The water softening pointreferred to above means the temperature at which the fiber sealedtogether with water in a glass tube is heated to shrink by /3 of theoriginal length of the fiber.

The special fabric in this invention is manufactured by using for warpthe above mentioned insoluble yarn, and for weft said yarn doubled ortwisted with the above mentioned soluble yarn. Another construction ofspecial fabric in this invention is manufactured by using both for warpand weft said insoluble yarn doubled or twisted with said soluble yarn.This invention further relates to a method of manufacturing embroiderylace, by means of using said construction of fabric as a foundationcloth and embroider thereon any desired pattern or figure, using suchthread as nylon, polyester or other synthetics, as well as cotton,rayon, silk, wool, etc., which is insoluble in lukewarm or hot water,and after the embroidery is finished, immersing the cloth in water of40-95 C. temperature for 30-90 minutes, thereby dissolving the solublepart in foundation but leaving the embroidery, as well as the insolublepart in foundation intact.

In the accompanying drawing which illustrates the inventiondiagrammatically:

FIGURE 1 shows an enlarged view of a double yarn consisting of hotwater-insoluble fibers a of 10-40 deniers and hot water-soluble fibers bof 50-150 deniers, which is used as part of warp or weft for thefoundation cloth of special embroidery lace;

FIGURE 2 shows an enlarged view of an embodiment of the foundation clothfor special embroidery lace prepared by using the hot water-insolublefibers a of 10-40 deniers as warps, and the doubled yarns as shown inFIGURE 1 as wefts; and

FIGURE 3 shows an enlarged view of the special embroidery laceconsisting of embroidery thread 0 of hot water-insoluble fibers, and hotwater-insoluble fibers 2 used as warps and wefts for the foundationcloth, which remain after hot water treatment at 40-95 C. for 30-90minutes.

The following examples will illustrate the invention:

(1) A fabric was woven using for warp nylon crimped yarn of deniers, andfor weft said nylon yarn twisted at 100 t./m. with polyvinyl alcoholfiber yarn of 120 deniers having a water-softening point of 75 C. Usingsaid fabric as a foundation, desired patterns were embroidered withrayon thread of 100 deniers. Subsequently, the cloth was immersed inwater of 95 C. temperature for minutes. Thus obtained was an embroiderylace beautifully stitched on a fine crimp foundation.

(2) A fabric was woven using for warp nylon nonetwisted yarn of 15deniers, and for weft said nylon yarn twisted at 100 t./m. withpolyvinyl alcohol fiber yarn of 110 deniers having a water-softeningpoint of 40 C. Desired patterns were embroidered thereon with woolthread of 30 count. Subsequently the cloth was immersed in water of C.temperature for 45 minutes. A woolen embroidery lace nicely arranged ona fine plain foundation was obtained.

(3) A fabric was woven using both for warp and weft hard-twisted silkyarn of 21 deniers doubled at 100 t./m. with polyvinyl alcohol fiberyarn of 100 deniers, having a water-softening point of C. Desiredpatterns were embroidered thereon with cotton thread of count.Subsequently, the cloth was immersed in water of C. temperature for 50minutes. Thus obtained was an elegant cotton embroidery lace stitchedbeautifully on a fine silk crimp foundation.

(4) A fabric was woven using both for warp and weft crimped nylon 15denier twisted with alginic acid fiber yarn of deniers having awater-softening point of 50 C. Desired patterns were embroidered thereonwith polyester yarn of 100 deniers. Subsequently, the cloth was immersedin water of 80 C. temperature for 60 minutes. Thus obtained was anattractive polyester embroidery lace made on a fine nylon crimpfoundation.

What I claim is:

1. A method for manufacturing a special embroidery lace, which comprisespreparing a foundation cloth by weaving first yarns having 10 to 40deniers and consisting of hot water-insoluble fibers as warps anddoubled yarns consisting of said first yarns and hot water-solublefibers having 50 to deniers and having a water-softening point of 3080C. as wefts, embroidering the thus prepared foundation cloth withembroidery threads consisting of hot wtaer-insoluble fibers, and dippingthe embroidered foundation cloth in hot water at a temperature of 4095C. for 30 to 90 minutes thereby to dissolve and remove only hotwater-soluble fibers woven into the foundation cloth, and retain theembroidery threads and the hot water-insoluble fibers woven into thefoundation cloth between the embroidery patterns.

2. A method according to claim 1, in which said first yarns are crimpedyarns of synthetic fibers.

3. A method according to claim 1, in which the hot water-insolublefibers for the embroidery thread are selected from the group consistingof synthetic fibers, silk and cotton.

4. A method according to claim 1, in which the hot water-soluble fibersare selected from the group consisting of polyvinyl alcohol and alginicacid fibers.

5. A method according to claim 1, in which the doubled yarns are used asboth warps and wefts for the foundation cloth.

6. A method according to claim 1, in which said first yarns arehard-twisted yarns consisting of at least one fiber selected from thegroup consisting of synthetic fibers, silk and cotton.

7. A method according to claim 6, in which the doubled yarns are used asboth warps and wefts for the foundation cloth.

8. A method according to claim 1, in which said first yarns arenon-twisted yarns consisting of at least one fiber selected from thegroup consisting of synthetic fiber, silk and cotton.

9. A method according to claim 8, in which the doubled yarns are used asboth warps and Wefts for the foundation cloth.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,450,948 10/1948 Foster 28-762,575,008 11/1951 Dorgin 28-76 2,592,154 4/1952 Johnson et al 28763,315,329 4/1967 Yoshioka 2876 FOREIGN PATENTS 721,003 ll/l965 Canada.320,528 10/1929 Great Britain.

P HENRY s. JAUDON, Primary Examiner.

